Last 10 Waypoints

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8º 54.084' S  -  140º 5.088' W
Safely arrived: at Anchor in Taiohae (Capital town), Nuku Hiva Island, The Marquesas, French Polynesia (Marquesas) - PASSAGE COMPLETE.

Day 22 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital town), Nuku Hiva Island, The Marquesas (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.9139, -140.0981

Progress: [We've made 3042.6nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 509:14 hours, or 21.2 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 47.0nm; we have made 44.2nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 45.7nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 4.1kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:3.9kt, Avg speed for trip:6.0kt. ]

Location Comments: [Anchored in 5m (datum), lush steep hills cacoon 300 degrees of this popular anchorage, and arrival location. Much deeper water further out.]

General Comments: [We made it. No more dolphins but we had a group of 6 or so Manta Rays pass by the boat on our way into the harbour. We've spent the morning slowly gaining on this island as we slide past others, and admiring the verdant steep slopes. So glad to be here, we'll be able to clear in in the morning (the local admin is only open in the mornings). We'll be glad to relax and reset our body clocks today.]

At: 17:14(MST) 23-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 32.8C (91.04F), Humidity:63%, Water Temp: 35C (95F)
1 day  ago
8º 59.094' S  -  139º 19.086' W
Day 22 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.9990, -139.3311

We have 47.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2998.3nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 498:00 hours, or 20.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 123.0nm; we have made 116.5nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 124.4nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 5.2kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:4.9kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.0kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [Downwind, spinnaker repair holding just fine. Great sailing conditions.]

General Comments: [Yesterday morning we had dolphins visit us for an hour, jetting back and forth across the bows. Our first mammals for some time! I cooked up the last of our potatoes too (Just a handful of onions remain). We are spotting more birds, and overnight we heard the regular squeak of nearby terns flying about the boat(?). All looks good for us to arrive by late afternoon boat time.]

At: 06:00(MST) 23-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28.5C (83.3F), Humidity:77%, Water Temp: 33.6C (92.48F), Course: 254(degT), Speed Over Ground:5.4kt, Wind:11Kt(from:ENE), Cloud Cover:40%, Pressure: 1009hPa, Swell:1.5m (from:E)
1 day  ago
8º 53.058' S  -  137º 14.016' W
Day 21 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.8927, -137.2355

We have 170.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2881.8nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 474:00 hours, or 19.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 128.0nm; we have made 114.8nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 127.1nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 5.3kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:4.8kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.1kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [Nice, downwind sailing in smooth seas … perfect sailing conditions, with a patched/repaired spinnaker flying!!]

General Comments: [Kyle was convinced that the newer spinnaker could be repaired (I'd not seen the damage). When we pulled it out of its sock, we could see that *something* had snagged on the sail and caused a 5' long gash, in some places deep enough to actually cut through the material. Luckily all the damage was in a single panel. The repair took THREE rolls of spinnaker repair tape, but we both thought it would be fine, and when we hoisted the spinnaker and it filled without issue we could breath again and celebrate. Whew. Conditions are really nice, we've all the hatches open/ajar to air out the boat. Over the passage the boat has acquired quite the marine growth which we'll have to deal with at some point once we arrive and are back into more normal routines. Provided we have no further mishaps, all looks good for arrival tomorrow (Wednesday) in late afternoon.]

At: 06:00(MST) 22-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28.1C (82.58F), Humidity:78%, Water Temp: 33.6C (92.48F), Course: 268(degT), Speed Over Ground:5.1kt, Wind:8Kt(from:E), Cloud Cover:40%, Pressure: 1009hPa, Swell:1.5m (from:SE)
3 days  ago
8º 47.088' S  -  135º 5.064' WDay 20 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.7979, -135.0944

We have 298.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2767.1nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 450:00 hours, or 18.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 132.0nm; we have made 136.2nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 133.4nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 5.6kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:5.7kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.1kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [We had some increased gusts yesterday, so we brought down the spinnaker as a precaution and switched to the jib. Once things settled down a few hours later, we hoisted the 1 year old spinnaker and had it rip - ugh. We pulled out our older spinnaker, same thing. So now the winds are light and we have no light-wind sail, that will cost us some speed (and repairs). Frustrating. We are sailing in light winds near dead-downwind (perfect spinnaker weather).]

General Comments: [We used up the last of the fresh salad supplies yesterday, and we're both now looking forward to our arrival.]

At: 06:00(MST) 21-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28.2C (82.76F), Humidity:76%, Water Temp: 33.6C (92.48F), Course: 267(degT), Speed Over Ground:4.4kt, Wind:10Kt(from:E), Cloud Cover:50%, Pressure: 1010hPa, Swell:2m (from:SE)
4 days  ago
8º 43.002' S  -  132º 50.076' W
Day 19 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.7168, -132.8457

We have 430.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2630.8nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 426:00 hours, or 17.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 169.0nm; we have made 171.4nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 167.8nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 7.0kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:7.1kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.2kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [We've made another day of good speed as the spinnaker is up and seas start to reduce (still a long way from calm though).]

General Comments: [With the winds reduced, and cloudy skies, we needed to run the motor for a while overnight to keep the battery powered for the instruments (that's so frustrating). Progress has been good and we've adjusted our ETA again - just a handful of days remaining at sea!]

At: 06:00(MST) 20-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28C (82.4F), Humidity:80%, Water Temp: 33.1C (91.58F), Course: 267(degT), Speed Over Ground:7.7kt, Wind:20Kt(from:SE), Cloud Cover:90%, Pressure: 1010hPa, Swell:2m (from:SE)
5 days  ago
8º 34.026' S  -  130º 1.02' W
Day 18 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.5704, -130.0201

We have 599.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2459.4nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 402:00 hours, or 16.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 146.0nm; we have made 143.2nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 146.2nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 6.1kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:6.0kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.1kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [Things have started to calm, but it took longer than the forecast suggested. While we report the swell, there is actually 2 separate swells, and that's what causes the choppy seas and rough ride. We do, finally, have the spinnaker up again, and should be set for the rest of the passage!]

General Comments: [Overnight there was a distant lightning storm to entertain me. We're both looking forward to the seas calming. I made a mistake by making some soup yesterday in anticipation of the calmer conditions, but was too early and had to serve half bowls to avoid loss. All well aboard.]

At: 06:00(MST) 19-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 27.9C (82.22F), Humidity:82%, Water Temp: 33.1C (91.58F), Course: 267(degT), Speed Over Ground:7.1kt, Wind:16Kt(from:ESE), Cloud Cover:50%, Pressure: 1010hPa, Swell:2.5m (from:SE)
6 days  ago
8º 25.056' S  -  127º 33.06' W
Day 17 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.4261, -127.5601

We have 745.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2316.1nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 378:00 hours, or 15.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 144.0nm; we have made 136.2nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 144.2nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 6.0kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:5.7kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.1kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [More of the same,overnight seemed especially rough (plus rain). We should hopefully be over the worst of it now and have daily improvements until our arrival.]

General Comments: [After our previous post, the other boat called us on the radio. White Malkin is captained by a 71 year old solo British sailor Mike, also headed for the Marquesas (not too surprisingly). No birds stopping by, but several spotted flying around. Today, in the early hours of 18th April 2025, day 17 of our passage from Galapagos to the Marquesas, we broke 20,000 hours underway with Begonia. That equates to (about) 2 years and 103 days underway. Since we purchased the boat on 11 June 2012 - this means we've been underway for 17.77% of our time of ownership! If you own a car and wanted the same use from it, you'd have to be driving almost 30 hours a week (or just over 4 hour and 15 minutes EVERY day). This amazes me, especially considering that we barely took the boat out in 2015 (when in Oakland, we just had a handful of day sails, mostly when we had visitors). Considering that the boat is also our home (underway or not, we are using it EVERY day) I think we've certainly achieved value from our purchase!

Now some of that time underway has been 'just' relocating to collect some fuel, or to a haul-out lift, but we've also had some LONG passages where we've been at sea for weeks. Our longest passage was a 46 day at sea in 2018 from New Zealand to Chile, We've had two 34 day passages (2014:Galapagos to Hawaii, and 2023:Ascension Island to the Bahamas), a 29 day passage (2017:Mexico to the Marquesas), a 26 day passage (2014:Hawaii to Oregon), a 22 day passage (Darwin to Exmouth in Australia), a 20 day passage (2018:Robinson Crusoe Island off Chile to Easter Island) and many shorter ones, including 843 passages completed within a single calendar day. We are currently underway with trip #974 and on log book #11.

During the time we've owned Begonia we've moved at least 96,000 nautical miles, which puts our average speed at 4.75kt (not record breaking, but acceptable to us, and actually a bit better than I'd expected as so many of our trips end with time fussing around finding a spot to anchor and verifying the anchor is set, etc.). Yacht racing (where they can't take the short-cut through the Panama canal) defines a circumnavigation as at least 21,600 nm so while we've only managed one circumnavigation to-date, we've travelled enough miles to complete more than 4 during our time with Begonia.

As you can tell from the above detail, there isn't much to do on a passage. Reflecting on this milestone has been fun (for us at least - haha). ]

At: 06:00(MST) 18-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 27.9C (82.22F), Humidity:87%, Water Temp: 33.1C (91.58F), Course: 266(degT), Speed Over Ground:6kt, Wind:17Kt(from:ESE), Cloud Cover:90%, Pressure: 1009hPa, Swell:2.5m (from:SE)
7 days  ago
8º 15.066' S  -  125º 8.016' W
Day 16 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.2609, -125.1360

We have 889.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2180.0nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 354:00 hours, or 14.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 161.0nm; we have made 146.0nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 160.9nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 6.7kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:6.1kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.2kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [Trade winds, sailing on a run with the jib alone. We expect the winds to decrease over the next few days so we'll be able to switch to the spinnaker for the remainder of the journey (if the forecast matches reality). Sea choppy, definitely need to alert when moving about the boat.]

General Comments: [The rough seas have kept me from cooking anything that requires too much chopping (It's hard to hold on to everything in the lurches). Now the full moon is several days away, the start of the night watch is REALLY DARK (until the moon rises); it's impossible to see anything, so we just hope that there is nothing floating around in the water immediately ahead of us in that dark. Overnight Kyle has spotted an intermittent and distant AIS target that appears to be a sailboat (the first of anything we've seen for 6 days).]

At: 06:00(MST) 17-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28C (82.4F), Humidity:83%, Water Temp: 33.1C (91.58F), Course: 266(degT), Speed Over Ground:6.8kt, Wind:20Kt(from:E), Cloud Cover:82%, Pressure: 1008hPa, Swell:2.5m (from:SE)
8 days  ago
8º 3.084' S  -  122º 26.01' W
Day 15 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-08.0638, -122.4350

We have 1050.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 2033.9nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 330:00 hours, or 13.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 152.0nm; we have made 154.8nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 151.7nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 6.3kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:6.5kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.2kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [Overnight, the wind shifted a little more downwind, enough so we couldn't use main AND jib. In a few days we should be able to return to the spinnaker.]

General Comments: [Kyle is relishing the remote location, while I'm ready for things to be done and have us reach our destination. We've been more than 1000nm from land for 4 days, 9 hours and 15 minutes (893nm of travel) - but finally we are less than 1000nm to our nearest land again. No birds at all aboard Begonia yesterday, so that entertainment has gone. For the passage we regularly snag a flying fish aboard; when we notice we can flip them back overboard, but often there are a couple dead on deck in the mornings. As we push east the true day shifts compared to the boat time, and it is now completely dark as we write our 6am report (sunrise will be about 8:20 boat time by the time we arrive).]

At: 06:00(MST) 16-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 28.1C (82.58F), Humidity:79%, Water Temp: 33.1C (91.58F), Course: 266(degT), Speed Over Ground:6.3kt, Wind:20Kt(from:SE), Cloud Cover:100%, Pressure: 1009hPa, Swell:2m (from:SE)
9 days  ago
7º 51.09' S  -  119º 53.04' WDay 14 of Pacific Ocean Passage From:Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands (Ecuador (Galapagos)) To:Taiohae (Capital of) the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva Island (French Polynesia (Marquesas)).

Our position: loc:-07.8650, -119.8897

We have 1202.0nm remaining (along expected route).

Progress: [We've made 1879.1nm (through the water) on this passage (in a total of 306:00 hours, or 12.8 Days)

Since last posting: we have reduced the distance to go (along expected route) by 154.0nm; we have made 159.9nm (through water/on-speedwheel). We have moved 154.3nm from prior posting position - giving a P2P average of 6.4kt, Avg speed (through the water) since last post:6.7kt, Avg speed for trip to date (through the water):6.1kt. ]

Sailing Conditions: [More of the same (a bit stronger than forecast, but what we've had for several days now), too far forward (and strong) for the spinnaker.]

General Comments: [Bluey has become quite the bully, wherever Tanner lands, Bluey moves to and squawks and pushes him off after just a short while.. This can go on for hours. By 2pm yesterday (boat time) they had both left the boat. They often do this (fishing mostly) but this time neither returned so we've had no birds overnight. Overnight I (Maryanne) has takent to wearing a jumper as the wind blows into the cockpit, Kyle's been laughing at me for days, but last night even he added a layer.]

At: 06:00(MST) 15-Apr-2025, Outside Temp: 27.7C (81.86F), Humidity:81%, Water Temp: 32.6C (90.68F), Course: 265(degT), Speed Over Ground:7kt, Wind:20Kt(from:SE), Cloud Cover:70%, Pressure: 1009hPa, Swell:2m (from:SE)
10 days  ago